
I sit at the Zurich airport, waiting for a connecting flight that is obviously never getting here. Huge glass windowpanes look out at the Swiss countryside - painfully unreachable thanks to an expired Schengen visa. A moment then, to brace for the jetlagged days ahead, for the upcoming intrusion of work life beyond that, and for the final spanner to be thrown into my practiced routine of daily reverie.
Canada was nice. But you probably knew that. Over the course of my travels, I met two people who happened to have the same first name - which was about the only thing they had in common. Oh that and their French Canadian roots. Here we go.
Francois 1
At first I think he's stood me up. I've been waiting on the street outside the hotel in Ottawa
for just about five minutes, but I am already certain he isnt getting here. These Canadians are obviously being over-friendly to hide darker character traits like the fact that they enjoy blowing off gullible travelers. Once again I gaze into the crowd, scan to the left, a flick to the right, back to the left again - when a figure in the distance waves at me. Well, atleast in my direction. I turn around to check if the wave was intended for someone else, but nope, this is indeed Francois my professed Ottawa guide for the next three hours, and I wave right back.
"So I need to learn how to pronounce your name".
"Ahhh. Well, okay, let's do this - Frrhhn-svaa".
"Fransaw".
"Ha, not quite. But it's fine, you can call me Frank. Or even, mmm, Roger if that works for you. So, coffee, beer, or would you like to just walk around?"
I elect to walk.

In 15 minutes I've figured the walk-talk is better left to Aaron Sorkin or Richard Linklater, and we find ourselves instead sitting by the banks of the Rideau Canal, which Francois informs me inadvertently becomes the world's largest ice skating rink, come Ottawa's minus 30 degree Celsius winters. Important nuggets of pop-culturese are exchanged, it turns out we will be able to hold a conversation or two after all, and with that, we start walking down the Canal. He doesn't seem to be too big a fan of this city, but heartily recommends Montreal. Turns out I'll be going there in a few days; turns out he will too. If our schedules manage, we feel it is important he shows me around that city as well.
We find ourselves in front of a giant glass building, flanked by a 15 foot high bronze spider.
"And that right there is Maman - there are 8 of its kind in the world".
This nugget of information comes from my side, much to Francois', consternation.
"You can't know more about my city than I do!" - but here he is also quick to point out this isn't infact his city. Montreal is the place he really identifies with, and when he goes back to speaking of it, he is rapturous.
I'm taking in bits and pieces of him too as we walk along; of his impossibly light eyes, of the way his mouth curls in a slight smirk; how his hair when caught in the sun makes me squint with its sharp inflections of gold. We've now progressed to the subject of relationships and men, but I'm trying to divulge as little as possible of my Pandora's box for a change - some other time perhaps. For now he will have to be content with knowing about my ideas regarding first marriage as a testing ground, and the second as the real deal, and the way my admittedly vague life plan dovetails around the two. He is mostly amused and mildly concerned by this; from his own talk I glean a sense of a man who is a relationship pragmatist himself. The undamaged, uncynical but guardedly cautious attitude to love. Interesting - and the more people I meet, the more I realize - rare.
Then he says the clincher.
"Well I suppose I'll settle down once I'm done with all the nationalities, you know?"
I gasp - I do in fact know. His goal is identical to mine, and we enthusiastically proceed to checklist our nation count so far, arriving at a roughly similar number. I am suitably impressed.
"You know what Francois? You'll make a good second husband".
He nods appreciatively at this most ultimate of honours.
I feel a twinge of sadness as we part ways. As I walk back towards my hotel, I'm hoping we get to meet in Montreal.
---
Francois 2
But before Montreal could - or would - happen, there was Quebec City. And in Quebec City, there was Francois 2. For him, I have 3 words:
Oh -My -God.
Okay fine, I have more than that. But, seriously.
"Okay, first you need zoo learn how zoo pronounce my name"
"I do?"
"Yes you zoo. I don't like people spoiling it - now say - Frrrhaaaan svois."
"Fransaw"
"Uh. NO. Frrrrhaaan svois."
"Frrrrransawwww?"
"Nooo, nooo, it iz Frrrhanswois say it like thaaaat."
"Farrhansaw?"
This went on for approximately 2 minutes and 30 seconds. That is a lot of r's rolled per second, if you're counting.
It was 11 pm and we were sitting at Francois 2's home, located squarely opposite my hotel. Yeah, I know what you're thinking - hell I was thinking it too, even after that. I don't know about Francois 2 though. As we sat on his couch he looked wistfully at a table across the room.
"That was my boyfriend's"
"Ah. He doesn't own it anymore then?"
"Nooo. I mean - that iz my ex-boyfriend's".
"Ah"
"We broke up three days ago"
"Oh no - I'm sorry"
Oh no indeed - I had a sinking feeling in my stomach about where this evening was going to go. And sure enough, in another 15 minutes, Francois 2 and I were facebook stalking his ex, who it turns out Francois 2 had left due to the boy's drug problem. As we trawled through picture after picture, it was obvious that he really was the junkie Francois 2 accused him of being. There were also an alarmingly large number of pictures with him wearing a beer sipper hat and looking intensely bored.
"Ohhhh Coco ..."
"His name's Coco??"
"Nooo nooo - Coco izzz - what to say - it is like a name I give - like zoo give names to boyfriend - like - "
"Like honey?"
"Yes! like that. He was my honey. He was my Coco"
We both look mournfully at Coco sulking back at us from Facebook. I am furiously biting down the urge to gallop back to my room - and yet, this boy was obviously not doing too well, so if a sympathetic ear was what he needed, I supposed I could bear another half an hour of this.
Right?
I step up to go get some water. When I get back, he's headed off to his bedroom.
no no no.
"DAHneeesh. Come heeeere"
I walk in gingerly to find him grinning next to a tray of medicines.
"Uhhh"
"These are my diabetes medicines!"
Well, glad we were sharing.
"All subsidized - I don't have to pay!"
And glad the Canadian healthcare system's awesome.
"And look it iz not hurting one bit"
Okay - needles make me queasy. Not just when used on myself - though of course that's no picnic - but I'm not very good when it comes to other people subjecting themselves to this obviously inhumane form of administering medication. I once had to hold up my then 2 month old sister for a vaccine, and I almost dropped her - even as she managed to go through the procedure without a squeak of protest.
His next move of course was to gleefully offer me the injection - "I geeve you 10 dollar to say you will have NO pain when you inject. 10 dollar, on the table". To demonstrate the strength of his conviction, he plopped a 10 dollar note on the table. Meanwhile. the blood had swooped from my head down into my stomach as I found myself holding the syringe.
"Take ...gurgle ..... it ...gurgle .....back"
After a few seconds of sadistically enjoying my terror, he took the syringe from me, then gurgled in pleasure as he stabbed himself with it in the knee.
This really was my cue for running out screaming. I turned around to leave -
"It is strange sleeping alone"
Uh oh.
"You know I am having zoo leave the tv on through the night because I need constant prescence?"
I nod giving my best sympathetic look possible.
"I just wish someone could hold me through the night and be my Coco"
This was accompanied by a meaningful gaze at me. So he wanted me to curl up around him "Coco style" and lull him to sleep. Since I am not -
a) Florence Nightingale
b) completely insane
- I pointed out this was probably not a healthy idea.
"You know, I think - maybe it might be a good idea if you were trying to get over him. Not imagining other people as him"
"But we will also have sex!"
"Really not the point here".
And then I said the words I didn't think I'd ever hear myself say:
"You probably shouldn't sleep around with anyone for a bit"
Never has a cold night air chill felt more welcome.
---
You say Au Revoir - and I say Bonjour
Montreal is everything Francois promised it would be. For the first time in my trip, I feel that stab of traveler's sorrow experience from not really belonging to a place. This is a city I wish I could call my own, get into the daily grind of. I want to live here!
I can imagine Francois' good natured riff on the city as I walk its streets, and I think about how he must know the ins and outs of that lane and this, maybe frequented that spot on the Church steps across the street where a group of exhuasted tourists have collapsed upon. I'd like to say goodbye to this man, one of the best things about my time in Canada. Regretfully, turns out I have to be at the airport around the same time he reaches Montreal.
I decide I'd like to hear his voice once before I leave any which way. There are 8 coins of 25 cents left in my pockets as I walk the streets of the city one last time before heading back to my hotel. There's a payphone right up ahead. 2 coins in, the phone starts to ring, it goes to voicemail, and there go 50 cents.
With 6 coins in my pocket, I walk down another street, another pay phone. And once again, it goes to voicemail.
Okay, this isn't happening. Up on my left is a dollar store - I walk in trying to find some way to dispose off my last bit of Candian currency. I look around for a bit, but darnit I really want to make that call, so I walk right out, down another street, and another pay-phone.
He answers at the third ring. As soon as I hear his voice though, I realize I don't quite know what to say. I don't know what tone I want to use, if the inflection in my voice is allowed to be excitable or warm or faintly pleasant - and why that is even a consideration in the first place. All this flashes through my head between the two seconds it takes for him to answer:
"Francois?"
And I reply -
"Francois!"
When it is affirmed that it is indeed Francois on one side of the line, I confirm my identity. Thankfully the name Danish rings a bell, and I didn't have to resort to "oh you know, the boy who said he'd ensnare you in his second marriage 2 hours after you met".
" So - I just wanted to tell you how great I thought Montreal was."
This I truly did.
"And thanks again for being a great guide back in Ottawa"
That he was.
"And stay in touch?"
I hoped we would.
"And don't forget to marry me a decade from now"
So this last bit I didn't say. Quit when you're ahead, etc. in this case, quit before you've made a blubbering mess of yourself. To Francois' credit he responded to what must have clearly been an utterly bewildering rant with bravado. Yes it was really nice meeting me, and oh yes he was glad I had a great time and Montreal, and oh it was quite nice of me to call before I left and yes we could start discussing tentative marriage venues.
Okay fine, again not the last bit, buy hey I am an astute between the lines reader, okay?